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The only reason i sell this lens is because of versatility. There have been a lot of Tele-Tessars over the years. I have never had a bad experience buying used Canon lenses from eBay sellers with 99.5%+ positive feedback. The aesthetic quality of the blur in the out-of-focus parts of the image are buttery smooth and soft. Add To Cart. Take care not to confuse this lens with the 200mm F4 SMC Takumar 6x7 which has a different optical configuration, and which I have never tested. In the right hands this lens really does have "magic pixie dust", as a friend once described. I know taste is subjective, but it seems to me that some people have become obsessed with blur and bokeh. I enjoied the use of this lens many years before the DSLR. It has no chromatic aberration, and no hint of star deformities in the corners. I do not think telephoto lenses would be suitable for use with your modified camera. To me it is a dead spot between 85 and 200. If you have the 1.8 version, way to go. Orion nebula shot with Canon T3i and Rokinon 135mm @ F2.0 150 shots with dark bias and flats stacked and edited. The image shown below covers 4.96 x 5.98 degrees in the constellation Cassiopeia. however i started to realise how every subject might actually be a cardboard cutout being photographed. Although your target audience is beginning DSLR imagers, much of your advice also applies to using lenses with CCD cameras. 30-35% diameter reduction is usually necessary on "good" lenses. Plus it is harder to attach than other lens hoods. Lenses with extreme sharpness and bokeh tend to be heavy. #light_bulb I would disagree. Yuri toropin tests a bunch of lenses on Flickr which is a great source. Wonderful image quality, lots of detail, contrasty, subject separation, fast and accurate AF, bright viewfinder, solid construction, unobtrusive in use, No weather sealing, makes all my other lenses look poor (even the 'L' zooms that, when I first got them, imagined could hardly be improved on). You currently have javascript disabled. But you couldn't have because you don't know even as much as this guy. It's an ideal portrait lens. For comparison, no other lens I know of would earn more than 8/10. To achieve creamy bokeh, a lens should have a wide maximum aperture and a long focal length. With a rounded 9-blade diaphragm, shallow depth of field imaging will be rendered with pleasing out-of-focus highlights. Also, I used to have a Nikon 180/2.8 ED IF AF and 300/4 ED IF AF. A quick question, I have a Sony a6300 mirrorless camera which is great but the sensor is very close behind the mount. To see even more example photos using the Rokinon 135mm lens (or Samyang branded version), go ahead a perform a search on Astrobin or Flickr, with the appropriate filter. The California Nebula. If You can afford it, buy it! This looks to be an excellent lens with fantastic results. Interesting. I think they are an outstanding value for any wide-field astrophotographer, and are particularly suitable for newcomers. The Olympus Zuiko 180/2.8 and 100/2.8 impressed me in the 1980s, but in the digital era they are not so sharp. It is sharp but somehow not that analytic way as a macro lens. But this lens changed my mind. Chromatic aberration is almost eliminated in narrowband, so lenses with that problem may be fine performers. If the telescope mount is precisely aligned to the celestial north pole, unguided exposures of one to two minutes are possible. I have had a blast with a samyang, but a used 135mm f2.8 is VERY . As in all arts the client's likes influence the result up to a point. It can isolate subject while being tack sharp with beautiful creamy bokeh when used at f2. When stopped down to 37mm, at F5.4, it also produces perfect, small and round star images across the entire field. Ive spent a handful of nights testing this lens in my Bortle Scale Class 6/7 backyard, and my results live up to the hype it gets in terms of astrophotography performance. In these situations, a portable, wide-field imaging rig wins. (purchased for $650), reviewed June 6th, 2008 If you must have autofocus, and care about weight, buy the Canon. Overall, the lens feels very solid and well constructed. thank you for that great review and also the explanations. The first telephoto lens of choice, especially recommended for beginners, is the 135mm F2.5 SMC Pentax. This is one of the sharpest lens i've ever owned. You just panned the subject for his photos and then turn around and needle thematic for looking into Ericsson. This summer I'm going to try the lenses out for LRGB images to see how they perform. This is the EF-M series version. IS would also help outside with wind. It is by far the fastest focusing, best bokeh, and lowest light lens you will ever find. The OP admits he limited experience with lenses other than what he has. Stuff I used to take the photos. Prime lenses are typically lighter as they do not need the additional glass and mechanics required to zoom at varying magnifications. Even if the background is very close to your subject, somehow the optical construction in the 135mm lens will still manage to separate the background beautifully. There are times that making no comment at all is far more telling than posting negative - and sometimes offensive - ad hominem attacks on the author for daring to show some enthusiasm. So now your 42Mpix A7rII is only a 10.5Mpix. Fast focus, Super sharp, Well built, Awesome for low light. These lenses go about as close as you could get without a dedicated macro lens. If you have pictures taken using the Rokinon 135mm F/2 lens, please feel free to share your results in the comments section (links to Astrobin, Flickr or your personal gallery are fine). Can't argue with your reasoning, Juksu, about the framing of the article, but just stopping by to say I really liked that cat picture, am shopping for a new smartphone, struck that this type of photo is in another league - all newbie observations, of course, which sort of supports your thoughts that an article like this would be better framed as a "Love this new long lens stuff" sort of thing. But the Rokinon f/2 version fits into a different market. Now - THAT's a lens everyone should have ;). I hear great things about the Canon 200/2.8 L but do not have one. Do I wish it were manufactured with metal? So.. its like there is one F stop not being used by the lens..how do you know what click is for what F stop?? Also, as creative as the wide-field 135mm focal length is, its not practical for smaller DSOs and most galaxies. 24/28mm, 50mm, 100mm, 200mm. All of them are extremely sharp and produce mouth-watering bokeh, and all of them are reasonably priced for what you get. Whereas quality apochromats can be corrected with broad band filters, such as the Astronomik UV/IR cut filter or the CLS-CCD filter, telephoto lenses can not. The 70-200L being a much more useful lens. Perhaps you have seen the photos of masterful Russian portrait photographers such as Elena Shumilova or Anka Zhuravleva. My point is that we must never lose the joy of photography. Available in other Styles, Configurations & Kits. Sharpness, contrast and the natural vignetting on full-frame cameras is awesome! It is really thanks to another commentator pointing out something that finally makes sense out of this mess: This article is by someone who just got his first first telephoto ever, and is writing about how he feels when he is trying it out. I got many great shots from this lens but also missed ton of shots due manual focus only. This way you get both lenses with only one! Could use a few updates. (cont. I have only owned my 135mm for less then a year, but already it is one of my top three most used and most fun lenses. Deep-sky astrophotography is often associated with a camera and telescope, but the truth is there are a lot of great camera lenses for astrophotography out there. It seems lazy to me. And it's not the one problem from my L lenses very sad =(, My favourite lens, hands down. All content, design, and layout are Copyright 19982023 Digital Photography Review All Rights Reserved. My work requires auto-focus. Imaging Resource 1998 - 2023. The Heart and Soul Nebulae captured using a DSLR and the Rokinon 135mm lens. Rokinon 135mm F2.0 ED Lens. My guidescope is a 5in F5 Jaeger's achromat with a 2.3x Barlow, and a 9mm illuminated reticle eyepiece. But again i am just at the beginning and i also do not want to use now a telescope. Unfortunately I haven't more the Canon lens. Images that sing. As if absolutely clueless Youtube instructors who have no idea what they are talking about weren't enough. Overall, spectacular lens. Nikon 300/4 ED IF, Sigma 50/2.8 DG Macro (not a telephoto, but good). Preaching to the choir! The following image was captured by Eric Cauble using the Samyang branded version of this lens. As rest you do just by cropping or stitching. But you raise the exact point, that primes should be chosen with a 2x factor. Youll never have to worry about losing your position just by touching the lens, but you can always tape the position down to be sure. Thanks for sharing your thoughts.No disagreement here. I have an old 135/2.5 Takumar that is not bad at all, for the price. There are, of course, outlierssuch as the legendary unicorn lens Canon EF 200mm F2but that one isn't a great alternative unless you are cool with spending $5,700 and carrying around something about as wieldy as a fire hydrant. The focuser adjustment ring on the Rokinon 135mm F/2 is excellent, but fine-tuning your critical focus on a bright star at F/2 will take some trial and error to get right. I purchased this lens for the purposes of wide-field deep-sky astrophotography from my light-polluted backyard (shown below), and when traveling to a dark sky site. I really wanted to use, and like, a 135mm f2 lens so I bought the Canon version. Panasonic 35-100mm f2.8. I have the Canon EF 135mm, f2L USM. The images were collected using a Canon EOS Rebel T3i camera riding on a Fornax Mounts LighTrack II. That is the story.#7: Leaves.That doesn't work. However, when my Canon "L" lenses are used at f8 they are all very sharp and the 135L does not blow the others away. f/2, fast-accurate-silent focus, (relatively) small & light, super sharp!! "Bokeru" is a verb, and it can apply equally to to optical and psychological effects, including the reduced mental clarity that can some with age. Part of it might be that they were designed for film photography and modern digital sensor are far more demanding in terms of optical quality. I think youll find that this lens is behind some of the most amazing wide-field astrophotography images online! There is no such thing, in my opinion. The 135L is half the weight of the 70-200 2.8IS. Aperture ring. Now I wonder why people are never happy even on 3rd day of a new year :) Come on guys just think "Micael Widell" was working over holiday period to publish this free article ;). Also, the lens can only be operated when aperture is set to 22, wondering how I could use F2. The background blur is amazingly creamy with this lens. Diffraction from the cheap EF-s kit zoom lens was uneven. The Rokinon 135mm F2.0 is considered to be a full-frame lens because it can accommodate a full-frame image sensor with its 18.8-degree angle of view. I have just acquired my astrophotography set up thanks to all your videos and doing some research. Unfortunately, standard photography lenses are generally poorly corrected for CA at the red end of the spectrum, relying on the human eye's poorer resolution in red than green or blue. If you shoot things in motion on a Canon body, and need some reach without massive bulk, this is the one I recommend. Amazing sharpness wide open at F2.0 and the focus ring is nice and firm not tight you don't really need to tape it down for astrophotography. Helps me as a beginner a lot You can't really ask them to stand still while you move around. In this review, however, I am using the lens on a crop sensor (APS-C) Canon EOS 60Da, which puts the field of view at 12.4 degrees. If 135mm f2 works for you, then fine. Nice image, andysea. The Rokinon 135mm F/2 ED UMC. My canon is clear modded and I use a an Astronomik EOS-clip L filter to block the uv and ir. Latter looks quite professional.. The Andromeda Galaxy using the Rokinon 135mm F/2.0 ED UMC lens. For portraits and with a high MP body I'd be more inclined than ever to just go 85mm, and for other uses it's hard to pass up the zooms' versatility, but I still there's still room for 135s in some kits and some formats. Mr Ericsson makes a very good point, and to go and dig irrelevant background info on him to discredit him is just well THAT is trolling. There was no reason to test any other because, when stopped down to 49mm, F6.1, this lens is simply perfect, comparable to any APO on the market. This lens is available for several camera mounts, including Nikon, Sony, Pentax, Samsung, and Fuji. For some objects a reflection can take away from the photo because it covers interesting details of the object (Think Alnitak in the Horsehead Nebula). Seems to me that Michael is pretty new to using long telephoto lenses, he writes that the Samyang is the first he has owned. My first photo of the night sky is of Comet NEOWISE, however I know its not the best photo I could capture. They are by nature designed to compromise by magnification and distance, and are therefore not optically optimized at any single setting. [emailprotected]. Used with a FF body the DOF can be unforgiving, but if you nail focus the results can be magnificent. Im currently shooting with a Canon 60D. I found this highly restrictive for shooting indoors where there was seldom enough distance between me with my camera and my subject(s). The image is a 90-second exposure at ISO 400 using a Canon EOS 60Da. Read on to find out which you should be using and why! In this post, Ill share my results using an affordable prime telephoto lens for astrophotography, the Rokinon 135mm F/2.0 ED UMC. With a good smartphone, some creative legwork, and the photos scaled down as they are in this article you can make photos that at least just as good. Weight. Stick to Andromeda, and skip the Whirlpool. The article was based on the numerous lenses with which I have personal experience - that is naturally limited. The one and only 300mm lens I tested is the Zeiss Tele-Tessar 300mm F4. Nice article for beginners.It's all in the eyes of the beholder. Thanks.. Canon CR-N700 4K PTZ Camera with 15x Zoom. Theres no image stabilization on the Rokinon 135mm F/2 either, but thats a non-issue for amateur astrophotographers. I'll walk you through all this inc. I just got the Samyang version of this lens and used it with my Canon 3ti on a Skywatcher Star Adventurer. Although this lens feels solid, it is rather light when compared to a telescope. I bought this lens after reading your great review for my Nikon D5300. The 135mm f2.8 in particular can take amazing photos of the brighter deep sky objects with about 1 second time . Such "full spectrum" cameras are somewhat more sensitive in the ultraviolet, but much more sensitive in the deep red and infrared. Beautiful portrait lens. I have the Sony SaL 135F1.8 Zeiss Lens and think that is excellent. Some APOs can be fitted with pricey telecompressors, but those invariably result in vignetting and coma. I see that many commenters did not get what this lens can do. I bought a Fotasy Minolta MD->EOSM adapter off ebay for $11, and then for about $20 each on craigs list really sharp, well built Minolta MC 28mm f2.8, 50mm f1.4, and 135mm f2.8 lenses that turned out to be great for astrophotography. This image of NGC 7000 was done at F/4 at iso 800 with a Canon 20D mod. Lior, I have done a lot of reading on modern zoom lenses. I bought my lens in mint condition for $350 from Japan, but I see that some retailers are asking significantly more. He's better than I am on BS, I got to give him that. So there - it is not a perfect object. Focal length: 135mm Maximum aperture: f/2.0 Lens construction: 10 elements in 8 groups Angle of view: 18 degrees Closest focusing distance: 3 feet Focus adjustment: Rear focusing system with USM Mount: Canon Filter size: 72mm Dimensions: 3.2 inches in diameter and 4.4 inches long Weight: 1.7 pounds Warranty: 1 year See more I was very happy for this reason to eventually get a full frame DSLR in 2007 and sell the 85mm lens and buy a 105mm one to replace it. Image quality is great, it is tack-sharp wide-open even though for partraiture, a little bit of softness is needed. I found with the 70-200 made me lazy. The Rokinon 135mm F/2.0 includes a lens hood, lens pouch, front and rear lens caps, and a 1-year Rokinon manufacturer warranty. We have come to accept that most lenses are strong in only one or two of these three factors, that I personally focus on when researching lenses to buy. Definitely now on my to-buy list. However, they can be perfectly corrected with narrow band H-alpha or OIII filters. The aperture range of this lens is F/2 to F/22, with 9 diaphragm blades (aperture blades) that work in harmony to set your f-stop.