Routes in 4. The Conn buttress borders the right side of the big wall section and Moby Grape climbs up the center of this buttress. It is a classic 5.8 wall climb, comparable to (but much longer than) Nutcracker in Yosemite or to Guide's Wall in the Tetons. The tallest sections reach up to 1000 feet in height, and offer arguably the best big adventures in this part of the country. Climbing Area Map. The cliff is composed of layered slabs of granite that seem to periodically give way and join the massive talus field at the bottom. Vertigo 5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British A0 R Avg: 3.8 from 108 votes Routes in 4. If you decide to top out (which is recommended for climbs like Moby Grape and Whitney Gilman), there are two main ways to descend. Immobilized for what felt like hours—though it was probably more like 10 minutes—I finally freed myself by sucking in my belly and shoving the cams back over. Finally, I yelled up, “Are you OK?” to which I got a response of, “Not really—I’m stuck.” Alex had been sucked into Kurt’s Corner, an alternative finish that notoriously stays wet. Ben Kessel, 34, of Sommerville, Mass., was climbing Moby … Every climber who heads up to do a route on Cannon understands that the undertaking is a considerable one. The grades tend to be stiff, especially on the lower end of the scale, which is important to consider when choosing a climb. After cruising through the boulder-problem crux of pitch 5, we jinxed ourselves by proclaiming that we only had two more pitches left and would reach the car before dark. Moby Grape est un groupe de rock américain des années 1960. If you decide to top out (which is recommended for climbs like Moby Grape and Whitney Gilman), there are two main ways to descend. Cannon is a very traditional climbing area, and requires both experience and good route-finding skills. Take the water runnel down (again climber’s right) until it turns into a trail, which will take you all the way down to the lake next to the parking lot (take a right from here). The 5.7 fifth pitch of this route wanders, and from the traditional belay stance it is not possible to see the leader. There is often a nasty black fly season in May/June in this area of New Hampshire. There is no water at the climbing area, so get some before you come. Though the original first pitch climbed the left corner of the buttress, Reppy's … We both held our breath as Alex tiptoed back down to a small ledge to regain the standard route, which we finished without a hitch. Climbing - 2005/09/10 - Cannon Cliff, NH - Moby Grape Phil G., Mike L, Myself, and Simon P., hit up Cannon in New Hampshire on Saturday. Despite its overall chossy composure, Cannon’s classic lines offer quality that rivals some of the best rock in Yosemite, though on a smaller scale. 2 photos of this climb: average rating 3.8 votes 7 Click on the small images to view the full size versions. I mistakenly took us up the Moby Grape approach trail forgetting that the Lakeview trail requires taking a hard right on the Pemi Trail after crossing the bridge. Pricing. Although I’d never been in a squeeze chimney, I chose the former—and got stuck when the large cams swung across my body. All Locations > New Hampshire > Cannon Cliff > 4. 20 Years Later on Cannon Cliff. Generally good rock notwithstanding, as an alpine route on an exfoliating cliff Moby Grape certainly requires more commitment than your average Gunks 5.8. Moby Grape Area . From the top of the main cliff section (Moby Grape), head climber’s right through the bushy escarpment for about 15 minutes until … May 31, 2016 | In MyAdventures, New Hampshire, Upper-Right, White Mountains | By David Lottmann. No matter, this only probably cost us 5-10 minutes. Rob, Iain, and I were crashed next to Profile Lake, just a little too close to I-93. Cannon Cliff, Franconia Notch State Park, New Hampshire, © 2021 Pocket Outdoor Media Inc. All Rights Reserved. Click to read about Cannon Cliff crag (NH Grafton County). Ben Kessel was climbing Moby Grape on Cannon Cliff when the rockfall took place gripped September 25, 2020 A man died in a rock climbing accident last Sunday in New Hampshire after a large rock cut his rope. No doubt, this is for good reason, as any one who stares up at it can tell from the relative size of the talus slope to the size of the cliff. The low angle makes for especially dangerous terrain in the event of a fall. I had been spending every paycheck I earned after school at the Salem, N.H., EMS on climbing gear. Several 911 calls were made from the Moby Grape climbing route reporting that a climber had fallen after a large rock had dislodged and severed his climbing rope. However, Moby Grape, established in 1972 by Joe Cote and Roger Martin, is one of the best moderate trad climbs in the Northeast. After the treaturous approach over the talus field, we climbed Moby Grape (5.8, 8 pitches). Cross this until you find the spot where the Old Man used to hang, which now is just a bunch of broken cables and concrete abutments that desperately tried to keep the Old Man in place beyond his natural expiration date. Nous vous proposons donc de gravir ce colosse deux fois plutôt qu’une par deux itin If I told you about a stunning seven-pitch granite route with a bit of everything—splitter cracks, hero roof moves, squeeze chimneys—your first guess might be a classic out West. The climbs are long, the weather is bad, and the rock is exfoliating. It’s located in New Hampshire’s Franconia Notch State Park on the 1,000-foot-high Cannon Cliff, which is known for shedding rock. 45 second video: Climbing Moby Grape on Cannon Cliff - YouTube He was now five feet above his last piece (a 0.2 BD X4), gripped, clinging to the dripping blocks that make up this left-facing corner. The Beast of the East. I then slithered onto the top of the fin, having experienced the magic of the Finger. Cannon Cliff. Use the contact form below to check availability. Un grimpeur perd la vie à Cannon Cliff 2020-09-25 Ben Kessel, 34 ans de Sommerville au Massachusetts a perdu la vie dimanche le 20 septembre alors qu’il grimpait la voie Moby Grape (5.8) à … In 2015, Alex and I were swapping leads, and I ended up on the sharp end on the Finger of Fate. Reppy's Crack, Moby Grape, Cannon Cliff on Vimeo Product The hike to the top of Cannon mountain is nice, and if you really want a lazy rest day, you can even take the Gondola up to the top. Conservation Officers along with members … If you top out Whitney Gilman, continue to follow the ridge back and up toward the summit and you’ll find an obvious trail that leads first back, then left, then down an endless slope eventually arriving at the carriage road underneath the cliff. A 34-year-old Somerville man died Sunday after “a rock the size of a refrigerator” severed his climbing rope and knocked him about 150 feet off Cannon Cliff in Franconia Notch State Park in … Kirkpatrick took an unexpected fall and dislocated his elbow. Unable to resist, Cote climbed up to the Sickle, and then swung back left to rejoin Psyche Dike. We reach the base of the climb in about 35 minutes. Across the notch and a bit north you’ll find one of the few “tower” climbs in the Northeast, the Eaglet. As a newer climber, I stood at high alert, willing the rope to move. Lee Hansche chooses the left option on the Finger of Fate pitch (5.7), chimneying up until he can clasp the top of the Finger. It’s also possible to camp at least 1/4 mile from the road within the National Forest, if you’re looking to save money. A Somerville man was killed over the weekend in a White Mountains climbing accident when a refrigerator-sized rock severed his rope, sending … From the beginning of my climbing I was taught to have a special respect for the dangers and challenges of climbing on Cannon Cliff. Highlight. Cannon is a very large alpine cliff with loose rock, ledges, wetness, and vegetation. This one is worth doing at least once for the exposure, and there are a few options of varying difficulty to get to the top. The best food options post-climbing are in nearby Lincoln and Woodstock. It was 1994, and I was 16 years old. It’s located in New Hampshire’s Franconia Notch State Park on the 1,000-foot-high Cannon Cliff, which is known for shedding rock. Routes: North America: United States: New Hampshire: Grafton County: Cannon Cliff: Big wall section- Central sect: Moby Grape. Massachusetts Man Dies In Climbing Accident Cannon Cliff. And with numerous sections featuring vertical jam cracks and granite slabs, the climbing was largely alien to a Gunks climber like me. Moby Grape (5.8) is as popular as Whitney-Gilman. Franconia: On Sunday, September 20, 2020 just before 4:00 PM NH Fish and Game Conservation Officers were alerted to a climbing accident on Cannon Cliff in Franconia Notch State Park. Photo gallery: moby grape at Cannon Cliff. However, Moby Grape, established in 1972 by Joe Cote and Roger Martin, is one of the best moderate trad climbs in the Northeast. Mooney Mountain Guides - Day Tours, New Hampton Picture: Our hike up to Cannon Cliff Moby Grape - Check out Tripadvisor members' 100 candid photos and videos. Franconia, NH – On Sunday, September 20, 2020 just before 4:00 p.m., NH Fish and Game Conservation Officers were alerted to a climbing accident on Cannon Cliff in Franconia Notch State Park. Moby Grape Area Rock Climbing. Cannon is a three season crag, though the best seasons are the summer and fall. For young aspiring trad climbers in New England this is the test piece cliff. From the top of the main cliff section (Moby Grape), head climber’s right through the bushy escarpment for about 15 minutes until you eventually catch site of the old helicopter landing pad. One can either squeeze between the fin and the wall or come around to the exposed face of the Sickle. Highlight. We met in Lowell at 7 AM and made it to cliff around 9:30 AM or so. This area is extensive with lots of unexplored rock on both sides of the valley and some of the United States oldest rock climbs. Mountain Project has a good listing of the better known routes, while Jon Sykes’ guidebooks The Notches or the older Secrets of the Notch are both quite useful for a full listing of what’s available as well as interesting historical information. The former home of the now-extinct Old Man of the Mountain, the proud symbol of the Granite State, Cannon Cliff still boasts an impressive profile that is hard not to gawk at while driving by on Route 93 underneath. Considering how temperamental the geology here is, it’s best not to wait to check out this Northeast gem, because it might be gone tomorrow. Un court extrait de Matthieu et moi sur Reppy's Crack au début de Moby Grape. New Hampshire, Cannon Cliff, Moby Grape At 11:30 a.m. on September 15, Liam Kirkpatrick (20) and his partner were climbing Moby Grape (8 pitches, 5.8 PG-13) on Cannon Cliff. Spring tends to be wet and seepy with some falling ice and sometimes rock to watch out for. La particularité du groupe est que ses cinq membres contribuent au chant et à l'écriture des chansons. The group continues to perform occasionally. New Hampshire Fish and Game officers were alerted to the situation after several 911 calls were made from the Moby Grape climbing route. Le groupe réalise un rock inspiré du folk, du blues, de la country et du jazz Biographie. New Hampshire, Cannon Cliff, Moby Grape. Spotting the triangular roof on what would become pitch two of Moby Grape, Cote led this sweet ropelength with a tricky crux—a balancey move up and over the roof—only to glimpse the alluring Finger of Fate, an improbably attached flake protruding from a Reaper-like sickle. Prochain départ Contactez-nous; Groupe 2 participants; Durée 3 jours; Niveau Intermédiaire / avancé; Hébergement 2 nuits en camping; Prix 675 $ *Peut varier en fonction du taux de change US; Lorsque vous apercevrez cette montagne, le sentiment d’aventure et de dépassement vous envahira. As the story goes, in 1971, Joe Cote first scoped out Moby Grape’s middle pitches when he and Ben Read traversed off from the neighboring Psyche Dike, as a party above them was dislodging lethal amounts of rock (seeing a pattern?). I was aid-climbing up the first pitch of One Drop of Water and was only 15 feet from the ledge I hoped to use as a belay when I heard that sound every Cannon climber fears: rockfall. It’s not recommended to leave things at the base, as it’s a pain to get back to the base from the summit, so most folks rack up at the car if they’re planning to top out. Even the most popular routes have unavoidable runouts and sections where falls will have serious consequences. Cannon Panorama. A full trad rack with doubles of most sizes and a set of stoppers is required for most climbs, and for some routes (e.g., Vertigo, VMC Direct Direct) double ropes will serve you well. This sensational climb follows excellent granite with fun moves from the moment you step off the ground to the very top of the cliff. Moby Grape is the second most popular route on Cannon, behind the Whitney Gilman Ridge. You’ll have to stay at a campground around here for a shower, or go swimming at the nearby Profile and Echo lakes. Classics include: The Whitney Gilman Ridge (5.7), Moby Grape (5.8), Union Jack (5.9), Duet (5.7), Vertigo (5.9+), VMC DD (5.10+), Location: Cannon Cliff, Franconia, NH Dates. Cannon Cliff is the tallest and most respected cliff in New England. The original first pitch consists of an awkward layback, followed by a traverse across the face to finish with some finger and hand crack. Moby Grape, Cannon Cliff, NH. The peak summer climbing here is quite enjoyable due to the breeze high on the cliff, but it’s hard to beat the climbing here in the fall when the foliage is in its peak. This is not to say that the routes are bad, however. Moby Grape Area . Previous | Next . Just don't stray from your chosen route, as you may find yourself in one of Cannon's … They were one of the few groups of which all members were lead vocalists. We rope up and off we go. Cannon Cliff. Though it’s a good pitch, it’s most often skipped for Reppy’s Crack (5.8)—a 120-foot hand-crack splitter established in 1965—a temptation my partner Alex and I could not resist on our ascent in 2015. Max leading Reppys, the alternative first pitch of Moby Grape on Cannon Mountain, July 22, 2012. The popular routes ascend pristine granite and can be over ten pitches long. The Lafayette Campground is the closest official campground near Cannon cliff. 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